SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS, CHIAPAS (CONTINUED)

PART III: MOVING OUT OF THE B&B

When I awoke from my sleep, I still was feeling poorly, but the pounding in my head had subsided sufficiently to remind me that I hadn’t eaten or drank anything in more than a day and a half. I managed to get up and head for the shower to freshen up, hoping that a nice long, hot shower would not only warm me, but perhaps make me feel alive again. I turned the shower on and let it run for a few minutes waiting for the hot water. There was none! I got dressed and headed over to the office to complain. I was advised that they would check it out. I decided that I couldn’t wait for them, so I grabbed a cab, headed for the hub of activities in Centro and found a nice little restaurant that served soup and hot tea. I was satisfied with the small but tasteful meal and returned to the B&B.

Shortly after my return, there was a knock on the metal door of my room. It was the owner advising that there was no problem with the hot water. I just didn’t let it run long enough! I told him I ran it for about 2 or 3 minutes and it was as cold as ice. He then advised I had to let it run for 5 or 6 minutes!!! Unheard of anywhere in the whole world I thought. I told him I thought that was an unusual length of time, but would give it a try. He then advised me that “after all, this IS Mexico”. I then advised him that “yes, I knew where I was and in fact have lived in Mexico for the past 16 years and have been a regular visitor to Mexico since 1965, which was before he was even born!” (It was obvious to me at this point that we just weren’t getting along!)

I finally managed a hot shower and then went back to bed. While in the shower, I noticed that the folds in the shower curtain were black with mold and mildew, as was the window sill and most of the window frame in the shower. The window was three-paned, and the pane of glass at the top had been removed to allow for the water pipes. That meant continual ice cold air blowing through the bathroom and into the small room that had no means of heat, save for my Lysoled blankets. In January, it’s cold in San Cristobal and you can easily see your breath in the mornings and evenings. The sink was wall-mounted and apparently had been leaking for quite some time as evidenced by the black mold and mildew on the wall behind it. Obviously, I wasn’t a very happy camper. Break out the Lysol (again).

Early the next day, I went back to the main part of the B&B and asked to use the computer because the one in the area where I was staying wasn’t operational for whatever reason(s). Free internet, as well as hot water 24/7, were proudly touted in their ads and included in the price. After explaining that the computer in my area wasn’t working, I was shown into the kitchen where the other computer was. The preparation of breakfast was fast underway. There were three young girls, all with very long hair, playing chef and preparing eggs and toast and whatever. In between cooking, it appeared they were also playing “beauty shop” and continually played with their hair. None were wearing hairnets or any other type of head covering. Frying pans were never washed, just stacked one on top of the other and reused. The stove looked anything but inviting.

When I finished sending my e-mail, I returned to my favorite plastic chair in the courtyard to rest up a bit so I could go accommodation hunting. The owner asked if I was going to partake in the free breakfast, and I cordially replied “no”. He asked if I didn’t eat breakfast and I told him that yes, I do. However, I preferred to eat somewhere in the downtown area. That brought somewhat of a sarcastic smile and dirty look from him. I just didn’t care. I was very cordial and didn’t give him my lengthy list of reasons I wouldn’t eat out of his kitchen.

Footnote: I have specifically refrained from mentioning the name of the B&B as it is not my intention to influence opinion or attempt to ruin this guy’s business. He’s doing a great job of that all on his own. I would also point out that there are several favorable reviews out there to be had. I just don’t know where the reviewers’ stayed or what guidelines they use to evaluate an accommodation. God Bless them, one and all, and pass the Lysol!


Stay tuned for Part IV: Finding new digs (Yes, this story does, in fact, get better - lots better!)