Cantina's in Merida

Cantina is a Spanish word derived from Italian, canteen, meaning wine cellar. Curiously enough, the word cantina is often associated with the Southwestern part of the US, meaning a bar that serves liquor.

The word “cantina” conjures up thoughts of an old wild west saloon where cheap liquor flowed freely, the piano player was always a bit off key and to survive, a man had to be quick on the draw and a woman had to be even faster on her feet! The term “cantina” has endured for many a year and is still widely (and sometimes wildly) used throughout Mexico. Merida is no exception and we have our fair share of cantinas. Today, free flowing liquor, honky tonk piano players, quick-draw cowboys, and dance hall molls are questionable. Not entirely impossible, but questionable!

Ironically, most cantinas do not allow, or at least discourage, women as customers! A bit sexist, but that is just how it is here and that is a long-standing tradition. Some cantinas do employ younger women as waitresses. When it is necessary to hire a waitress, the signs always read something to the effect “young woman wanted as waitress; must have a good presentation”. Fill in the blanks and take it from there!

There are some establishments that clearly display the word “familiar” by their entrances. Translated, familiar in Spanish simply means, family. Curiously, these establishments primarily employ waiters. Go Figure! So, if you see “familiar” displayed somewhere by the entrance, you know it is safe to bring the wife, kids and your mother-in-law, too. If not displayed, best to look elsewhere for your watering hole and leave the family at home. Some of the more elaborate cantina’s in Merida, such as Eladio’s and Henequene’s, proudly display that they are restaurants and bars and even offer separate play areas for the kids! The biggest rivalry in Merida is between these two establishments. They each boast multiple locations and advertise extensively for your business. Having visited both, I am torn to choose a favorite, although I lean towards Eladio’s.

Interestingly enough, most cantinas post notices to the effect “say no to drugs”, “sale of alcohol to minors is prohibited”, “avoid excess”, “it is prohibited to drink alcohol in view of the public”, and even some advise that “if you drive, do not drink”! I can only presume these are public service announcements on behalf of the benevolent proprietors?

Most establishments have the traditional swinging doors at each entrance and often include some sort of barrier wall so that when the swinging doors are opened, you still can’t see in! The way I see it is that this serves two main purposes. First, it complies with the law about drinking alcohol in view of the public, and secondly, and perhaps most importantly, your wife or mother-in-law can’t be just casually driving by or looking in to see if you are there! The establishments protect the privacy rights of their patrons!

Some cantinas offer entertainment in the form of a strolling minstrel, a trio, a full band, singers, and even dancers. The music is always upbeat and very, very loud. As I have come to learn, loud music is also a Mexican tradition. For the music to be good, it absolutely has to be loud; very, very, loud. Usually loud enough to give you a headache or drive you to drink! (I think the pub owners are on to something!!)

There is lots of competition between cantinas. Most people judge the worth of a cantina by how cold the beer is and how good the botanas (snacks) are and sometimes by how good-looking and friendly the waitresses are. There are a few “familiar” establishments here in Merida, staffed by waiters, and they will serve you various botanas as long as you continue to imbibe! I have actually had two dozen or so different botanas served to me while enjoying and imbibing the afternoon away. (Sometimes, far away!) There are lots of times you don’t know what you’re eating, but for sure you can almost always expect the unexpected! Everything from pigs ears to pigs hearts, fried pig skins, assorted chips and dips, and even traditional Yucatecan foods such as tamales, flautas, refried beans, empanadas, kibi, and plenty of salsas. The list can be endless, so you’ll just have to go and experience it for yourself!

This is one of Eladio's locations:

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Here's one of Henequene's locations:

As a public service announcement, I would ask that you please do your ex-pat part to help support the local economy and keep this wonderful tradition alive!

Thank you.